Villa Doria Pamphili: a hidden gem a few steps away from Gianicolo
If you love to walk in extensive landscape gardens, you’ll find out that Rome has much to offer: the city has several villas and aristocratic houses that are worth a visit and a stop in their amazing parks.
A few names? Villa Borghese, Villa Ada, Villa Torlonia or the huge Villa Doria Pamphili with its many kilometres of tree-lined paths and its beautiful views.
Where is Villa Doria Pamphili?
On a hill, in Monteverde district. It is close to Gianicolo park and it offers large green spaces and prefect spots to take nature and artistic photos. The perimeter of the Villa is enclosed by via Aurelia Antica, via della Nocetta, via Vitellia and via San Pancrazio.
Why is it worth a visit?
For a total immersion in nature, just outside the city center: this park is so large and rich in plants that it was once called “Bel Respiro”, which means “Deep Breath”. This nickname reminded of the sensation of being in the countryside breathing fresh air. Here you’ll forget about the noise and bustle of the city center and you’ll stroll along shady paths in a quiet atmosphere.
To visit the most extensive Villa in Rome: Villa Doria Pamphili is the largest Roman Villa with its 184 hectares (just 94 hectares are open to the public).
To do some outdoor activities: biking or jogging, but also open-air exercise with the free gym equipment scattered throughout the park.
To enjoy a picnic: search for one of the areas equipped with tables or choose a quiet spot in a grassland of the western part of the park. That’s also a good place for kids (playground in the western part of the park).
Some history
Villa Doria Pamphili was built in the XVII century as a country residence for the noble Pamphili family. The architects Alessandro Algardi and Giovanni Francesco Grimaldi gave a great importance to the external areas and turned a plain plot of land just outside the city walls into a luxurious aristocratic residence. In 1760 the Pamphili dynasty dried out with the death of their last descendant and the Villa was inherited by Prince Giovanni Andrea IV Doria that purchased other lands and properties nearby to expand the borders of the estate.
During the 50s of the last century the area was expropriated and it now belongs to the Italian State (Casino del Bel Respiro) and to the City of Rome (park). On the occasion of the Olympic Games in 1960, the park was divided into two parts by the construction of via Leone XIII (also called via Olimpica). At that moment, the two sections showed their differences: the eastern side is richer in monuments and pieces of art, while the western part is more natural and offers a real immersion in the countryside. The whole park was opened to the public in 1972.
How to get there?
You can reach Villa Pamphili with the following public transport lines:
710 e 870 (via Vitellia- via Porta di San Pancrazio)
31,33,180,791 (via Leone XIII)
984 (via Aurelia Antica – via Leone XIII)
982 (via Leone XIII)
From Roma Termini train station: catch bus number 64 (direction Piazza Stazione S. Pietro) and get off at the stop named Cavalleggeri/S. Pietro (the 15th stop after Roma Termini). Now catch bus number 982 (direction Stazione Quattro Venti) and get off at the stop named Leone XIII/Villa Pamphili (the 10th stop after Cavalleggeri). Duration of the journey: about 45 minutes.
If you come here by car you can park in via Leone XIII for free. It can get quite busy, especially during the weekend. As an alternative, there’s a pay parking in via Vitellia 31.
Villa Doria Pamphili: Useful Informations
Opening hours:
from October to February from 07.00 to 18.00
from March to September from 07.00 to 20.00
from April to August from 07.00 to 21.00
Cost: free (park). The Casino del Bel Respiro is closed to the public because it is used as a representative office by the Italian Government. The Old Villa only opens on the occasion of special events.
Duration of the visit:
at least 3 hours. It’s best to spend half a day here.
Best period:
spring and autumn to enjoy the natural landscape at its best.
Entrance: Via Aurelia Antica, Via Leone XIII, Largo Martin Luther King, Via della Nocetta, Via Vitellia, Piazza di San Pancrazio, Largo 3 giugno 1849
What to see in Villa Doria Pamphili
Arch of the Four Winds: it was the main entrance to the estate and it is located at the gate of San Pancrazio street. It was built in the 50s of the XIX century by architect Andrea Busiri Vici.
Corsini building: it dates back to the XVIII century and it is part of the later acquisitions that contributed to the expansion of the family estate. It was heavily damaged in 1849 during the Gianicolo battle under the Roman Republican period, but architect Andrea Busiri Vici restored it completely. Today it shows a mix of styles due to the many modifications that were made throughout the centuries and its most striking feature is its bright red colour. It now hosts the House of Theatres.
Casino del Bel Respiro (or Algardi building): it is the most beautiful building of the entire complex and it hosts several works of art. It is closed to the public because it is a representative office of the Italian Government. The building was inspired by Palladian architecture and it also has a secret garden which is not visible from the outside. Another special feature of the Casino is an underground tunnel which directly leads to the Vatican State. It was built in 1644 by Cardinal Giambattista Pamphili, who became Pope Innocenzo X.
Lily’s Fountain: the lily is the symbol of the Pamphili family. This fountain is located in a strategic place creating a suggestive perspective on the canal and lake you can admire just in front.
Belvedere Lake: a beautiful panoramic spot. It is a completely natural lake surrounded by plants and populated by birds and other species of local fauna. Over the years, several works have been done to restore it and make it even more accessible and pleasant for visitors.
Venus Fountain: it is located on the external walls of the secret garden and it is decorated with mythological scenes, shells and stuccoes.
Theater Garden: it was once a real open-air theater that hosted shows and plays. This area was entirely restored in the XIX century and today it is an English-style garden full of fountains and exotic plants. Search for the eccentric artificial cave named Ninfeo del Satiro: it has fake stalactites, two statues of mermaids and two statues of fauns immersed in water.
Doria Pamphili Chapel: it is the family’s funeral chapel built in neogothic style. This is the most recent building of the entire estate (end of the XIX century). It was built by Alfonso Doria Pamphili to receive the remains of his father and brother.
Old Villa: it is the oldest building of the entire complex and it hosts a museum dedicated to the history of the Villa and the Pamphili family. Unfortunately, the museum only opens on the occasion of exhibits or special events. The Old Villa was built on the ruins of the ancient Traiano-Paolo aqueduct and it was already there when the land was bought by the Pamphili family in the XVII century. It was then a simple house among the vineyards.
Citrus Garden: next to the Old Villa a nice citrus garden still exists.
Mask Fountain: it owes its name to the central mask pouring water in the basin. On both sides, there are a smaller mask and a dolphin.
Snails Fountain: it was conceived by Bernini to be placed in Piazza Navona, but Pope Innocenzo X thought it did not fit that elegant square and he gave it to his sister-in-law Olimpia Maidalchini. In the end, the fountain ended-up in the park of Villa Pamphili. The original fountain was destroyed by bad weather over the centuries and what we see todays is a XIX century copy.
Cupid Fountain: the statue of Cupid was destroyed and we can just see a foot placed on top of the fountain. We can still admire the four pillars supported by four statues of fauns.
Greenhouse Garden: the greenhouse was built in the XIX century to contain exotic fruits. Today, they were replaced by a garden full of palm-trees.
Giovio House: it was built on an ancient Roman tomb. It is now closed to the public.
Delights Garden: a meeting place for noblemen
Deer Valley: in this 60.000 square meters area deer used to live in freedom. This was the family’s private hunting reserve. This area has been abandoned and neglected for years, but in 2000 some renovation works were carried out.
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