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Exploring the Jewel of Baroque Rome: Navona Square

Nestled in the heart of Baroque Rome lies Navona Square, an architectural masterpiece that echoes the grandeur of ancient Roman civilization. Built atop the ruins of the Stadium of Domitian, the square’s current layout mirrors the original stadium’s perimeter, which Emperor Domitian constructed in 86 AD for athletic events and horse races.

Today, visitors can still catch a glimpse of the ancient stadium’s remains, located several meters below the present-day street level. The ruins can be found beneath a modern building at Piazza di Tor Sanguigna and the basements of the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. The square’s name is derived from the Latin word “Agones,” signifying “Games.”

Throughout history, Navona Square has served as a backdrop for vibrant festivities, thrilling races, and lively rides. Between the 17th and mid-19th centuries, the square’s concave bottom was flooded on weekends during August, providing Romans with a unique space for leisure and entertainment.

One of the most striking features of the square is the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, a breathtaking example of Baroque architecture in Rome. Initially designed by Carlo and Girolamo Rainaldi, the church’s final transformation was completed by Borromini. Adjacent to the church stands the Pamphilj Palace, which has housed the Brazilian embassy since 1960. Opposite the palace, visitors can find the Church of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart, originally known as San Giacomo degli Spagnoli, which was erected to mark the Jubilee of 1450.

Navona Square is further adorned by three exquisite fountains. Fontana del Moro features a statue of an Ethiopian grappling with a dolphin, while Fontana de ‘Calderari, also known as the Fountain of Neptune, was designed by Giacomo della Porta. The centerpiece of the square, however, is Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s magnificent Fountain of the Four Rivers.

This impressive fountain showcases a large travertine cliff, expertly carved into a cave with four openings, supporting a granite obelisk originally from the Circus of Maxentius. Monumental marble statues of the four rivers, representing the known continents at the time, adorn the cliff’s corners: the Danube symbolizing Europe, the Ganges for Asia, the Nile representing Africa, and the Rio della Plata for America. Each statue is accompanied by its respective emblematic creatures.

Perched atop the cliff are two grand marble coats of arms of the Pope’s family, featuring a dove carrying an olive branch in its beak. A bronze rendition of the dove also graces the summit of the obelisk. Navona Square continues to captivate visitors with its rich history, stunning architecture, and enduring legacy as a testament to Rome’s glorious past.


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